There are so many different types of artificial nails (aka fake nails, faux nails, false nails, or fashion nails) out there! It’s no surprise at all that most people are confused at best, and are at the mercy of their nail tech at the worst.
History of Artificial Nails
The Short(er) History of Faux Nails
Let’s explore the relatively recent history of artificial nails for a bit. This might be a bit of a shocker, but did you know that modern acrylic nails owe their start to dentistry?! It’s true.
As it happens, an accident at work inspired Fred Slack, a dentist in 1954, to create an artificial nail to temporarily replace the one he broke off. Some experimentation with chemicals and methods later, he started a company together with his brother. This laid the foundation for acrylic nails.
The Long(er) Version
Nevertheless, 1950’s wasn’t the first time someone thought of using something to enhance the look of natural nails. In fact, longer nails were en vogue during many periods in human history. For instance, women wore them as a sign of a status symbol and upper class in ancient Egypt, where nail extensions were made from ivory and gold, as well as 19th century Greece, where noblewomen used pistachio shells as fake nails.
So thanks for the history lesson, but so what?…
Types of Artificial Nails
Fast-forward to today. The options for your digits seem endless, but all types of fake nails can be broken down into these main categories: acrylic nails, gel nails, dip powder nails, and nail wraps. The newest thing is the resurgence of glue-on options which now include press-on nails (same as stick-on nails) and glue-on nails.
What are Acrylic Nails?
Warning: small science lesson to follow π
Acrylic nails are made of a combination of acrylic glass and liquid monomers (usually ethyl methacrylate). The monomers in this situation are active and actually promote the reaction to form what is known as an acrylic nail. This mixture looks like a paste, bonds to the natural nail, and begins to harden pretty quickly. During this time the desired shape is created.
Are Acrylic Nails Safe?
Traces of these monomers may remain, however. And in the 1970s due to many reported reactions, the FDA removed products that were made 100 percent from one such methyl methacrylate monomer (aka MMA){*}. While any use is banned in many states, this ingredient is still used in many salons as it’s so much cheaper than the safer monomer ethyl methacrylate.
However, acrylics are generally safe. You need to be very careful with the removal process though and take a breather every 3-6 months to let your nails rejuvenate, as acrylics will soften your nail plate.
Pros
- They are stronger than gel and dip powder adding to the durability
- Best used if the ultra-long look is what you want
- Expect anywhere from six to eight weeks with a fill every couple of weeks or so.
Cons
- Requires a “nail fill” every couple of weeks as your nails grow out. This is done for esthetics and to prevent water and elements from getting under the original nail which can cause the nail to lift
- Takes much longer than gels and even than dip powder. Plan to spend about 1.5-2 hours at the nail salon
- Might cost slightly more than gels or dip powders.
What are Gel Nails?
Gel manicure has become incredibly popular in the last 5-10 years. Gel is exactly what it sounds like. It comes out liquid like regular nail polish but is then cured under a UV or LED light.
There is a lot of false information around gel nails. Basically anything that comes out of a bottle and is brushed on your nail and then cured under a light to harden is a gel nail. It doesn’t matter if it’s called “shellack” which is just a brand from CND or if it’s called soft gel or gel polish. It’s all one and the same.
The misinformation is in part due to marketing around gel polishes. They generate more income for the salons, require slightly less time, and they do not smudge or chip as fast.
Are Gel Nails Safe?
Gel nails are generally safe. However, they will also damage your nails slightly. Some people tolerate them well and can go for months without taking a break. I’m personally not one of them.
The other factor to consider is that you need to expose your skin to a UV light or an LED light. Both of them emit UVA radiation that is the longer wave radiation and at large amounts of exposure may cause cancer {*}. However, LED lights generally cure the gel faster than UV lights, the lightbulbs last much longer and consume less energy. But studies on both have shown them to be safe. Although sunscreen is still recommended.
Pros
Both gels and acrylics are great if you are looking to get out of the salon without waiting to dry your regular polish. However, gels typically take quite a bit less time per appointment than an acrylic would. Usually, you can be done in 45 minutes or less. They are also widely available with tons of color and pattern options.
Cons
Gel nails are generally not as strong as acrylics and therefore you can expect it to last about a week to two weeks, depending on your lifestyle. You should have it removed by a professional, as picking at the nail can and will damage your nail. Even with proper removal, it may soften your nail beds. Gels also require the use of UV / LED lamps that may lead to skin aging.
What is Dip Powder?
Dip powder nails are the newest trend to blow up on the nail space. They have been around for a while, but have not really gained much popularity until the last couple of years. Dip powder is basically acrylic in a powder form.
To create a look, the nail technician will clean your nail, cover it with a glue-like top coat, and then apply a highly pigmented powder. This is done a few times. After some buffing to create a sleek surface, a topcoat is applied.
Is Dip Powder Safe?
Just like acrylics and gel, dip powder is not bad for your nails. But it always comes down to a few simple rules. Do not let the nail tech dip nails directly into the powder jar. Chances are you’re not the only customer who used that jar. It’s best to have the powder brushed on with a clean brush or sprinkled on top.
Another concern is the removal process. As with gels, your nail tech will buff or file the nail surface and then wrap each nail in a cotton ball soaked in nail polish remover. Acetone and over-filing are a real concern. But because everyone has different nails, your own might do better with dip powder than other artificial nail solutions. However, there is no UV or LED lamps with this process.
Pros
- Expect it to last anywhere from 3 weeks up to a month
- Durability and strength similar to acrylics
- No UV / LED lamps required
- Can be used to add some length. Your nail technician can apply acrylic nail tips and layer the dip powder on top to create a look you want
- Cost is similar to gels at $30-$50.
Cons
- May be hard on some nails
- The removal process can be more intense than gels
- May take up to 2 hours for an appointment (with nail tips or nail art)
- Not all salons offer due to sanitary concerns.
xo, Marina
Disclaimer: I am not a medical doctor or a licensed esthetician. The information presented is not medical advice. It is purely to share my experiences and opinions based on the linked research. As always, check with a doctor for any medical conditions. The author and blog disclaim liability for any damage, mishap, or injury that may occur from engaging in any activities or ideas from this site.
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